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A: Yes and No. Basically, if you are buying a new PC then you should get Windows 7, but upgrading the Operating System on an existing PC is seldom worth the hassle and expense.

In short, Windows 7 is what Vista should have been and has much of the look and feel of Vista. The rough edges have been smoothed out and it is relatively bug free. However, if you are accustomed to XP (or earlier versions of Windows) then you will experience a bit of a learning curve due to the updated menus and features.

The question of which version to buy has two parts. You must determine if you want the 32bit or 64bit version, and also which edition of Windows you prefer – Basic, Premium, Professional, Ultimate, etc. The first is a practical matter, while the latter is a trade-off between features and cost.

I use the 64bit version since it can utilize more computer memory (32bit versions ignore memory >3Gb). Newer programs require increasing amounts of memory to run efficiently. Since I run several programs concurrently and I don't want my computer to become a boat anchor anytime soon, I purchased the 64bit version in anticipation of tomorrow's additional memory requirements.

However, running a 64bit version of Windows may present problems. The issue is not with the computer itself, but rather with peripheral devices you may want to use with it. External hardware connected to a PC requires a “driver” in order to work. And 64bit versions of Windows require 64bit drivers – which may not be available for the hardware you are trying to use with your PC. In short, if the manufacturer of your existing scanner/printer (for example) has not updated their driver for 64bit compatibility (updates can typically be downloaded from their website), then you must either get a new device which is 64bit compatible, or stick with the 32bit version of Windows.

Most people will get along fine with the Premium edition of Windows 7. To see Microsoft’s feature comparison, go to http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/compare/default.aspx. For a more thorough independent comparison, go to http://wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_7_editions. If you’re buying a laptop, it is important your data is encrypted so that when it gets stolen, you will not have identity theft issues also! Note that the Ultimate edition of Windows includes BitLocker, which can be used to encrypt your hard drive.

If you are expecting the “Windows XP Mode” feature (available in the Professional and higher editions) to address any and all compatibility concerns with your older hardware, think again! For one, getting XP Mode up and running is not for the faint of heart (nor even possible on older upgraded PCs). But if you are up to it, instructions can be found at http://www.microsoft.com/windows/virtual-pc/download.aspx. Be sure to read instructions on enabling the “Integration Features” too. Note that although it is unlikely that you will need to run software written for Windows 3.1 or older (16bit), XP mode will work for that situation. However, using XP Mode as a workaround for hardware/driver incompatibility issues is a mixed bag because some hardware works differently in XP Mode; other hardware (firewire port, for example) may not even appear to exist in XP Mode! Note that your video and sound hardware will appear as generic devices. (Furthermore, audio integration does not work well, and may need to be disabled for some functions to work.) Having said that, XP Mode is a kludge that just might make your 32bit USB or serial connected device function under the 64bit version of Windows 7 (I’ve done it). But it is rather tedious to implement and not very elegant – even in cases where it can technically be made to function.

For those few of you out there on the bleeding edge who are bent on ‘upgrading’ your current existing PC operating system to Windows 7, please keep in mind that a clean installation will be quite time consuming, and require that you re-install all your software. Also be advised that you will have to do a clean installation if you are going from a 32bit version of Windows to the 64bit version (which requires that you buy the full version rather than the upgrade version). And lastly, if you are doing a clean installation using an “upgrade” copy of Windows 7, do not begin by formatting your hard disk – run the Windows 7 setup and [optionally] format your hard disk from within the setup program. The setup program must see an existing copy of Windows on the hard disk when it first runs, or it will not proceed with the installation. If you must update your system, consider buying the ‘full’ version. In fact, you may want to consider a dual boot system, which means you first install XP on one hard drive partition, and then install Windows 7 on a second hard drive partition. This will give you the most flexibility, and a safety net for any compatibility issues you may bump into.

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A: There are two components to your question – the physical aspects of your network and the security aspects. I will address the security concerns first.

The biggest security factor is physical security. If no one can get to your data, it is secure. Ideally then, your network would be an isolated wired system within an impenetrable building. However, this is not practical if you want to communicate with the outside world, and your exposure multiplies when you are mobile with your laptop. So…

I encourage people to use strong logon passwords with their PCs. This slows down the casual snooper, such as your babysitter. If you do want to let someone use your PC, then create a special account for that purpose (with its own password). Because laptops get stolen, passwords alone are not good enough – an identity thief can connect your stolen laptop hard drive to another PC and help themselves to any personal information stored there. Encrypt your laptop hard drive!

Wireless networks pose an increased security risk. If you have a wireless router on your network, you must check the settings – even if you do not connect wirelessly. Many routers have been shipped with wireless enabled, and consequently, users unwittingly do not realize their neighbors can browse their network! This is a widespread problem – I seldom visit a home where at least one unsecured wireless network is not within range…

To check your wireless settings, refer to your manual or the manufacturer’s website for the procedure. Typically, you access your router by typing http://192.168.0.1  in your web browser. Find the wireless settings and make sure you use WPA2 encryption if you have the wireless radio enabled. (Weaker forms of encryption can be hacked.) A long (13 chars) encryption password that no one would guess is best – the security of your wireless network depends on it!

Some people suggest turning off the SSID broadcast in the router. I recommend against that. When establishing connectivity, at least one device must advertize its presence. When you shut off the SSID broadcast in the router, then the laptop must toot its horn. Although it may make you feel better and confuse a casual snoop if your wireless network does not appear in Windows Wireless Networking, that is not what matters. The threat occurs when you are in a coffee shop and a serious hacker eavesdrops on your laptop continuously announcing the SSID of your home network, in an effort to automatically connect! At that point, you've been had. The bottom line is that your laptop should remain silent about any network it will connect to. Therefore, your router needs to broadcast the SSID to initiate connections, which you protect with a strong password.

To share files and printers, you must turn on printer and file sharing. This setting is found under Start | Control Panel | Network & Internet | Network & Sharing Center | Local Area Network Status | Properties (menus in XP are similar); File and Printer Sharing for Microsoft Networks must be checked.

If you need granular control over file/folder access (not likely), then you can turn off ‘simple file sharing’ and configure duplicate accounts on each PC (presuming your PCs are configured for a workgroup, rather than an enterprise domain). To turn off simple file sharing, open Windows Explorer (Winkey – E) and select ‘Folder Options’ under the ‘Tools’ menu. Near the bottom of the ‘Advanced settings’ list under the ‘View’ tab, uncheck ‘Use Sharing Wizard’. To setup duplicate accounts, make sure all your PCs have all your logon accounts added, using the same password on each PC.

Printing is easiest if your printer supports a wireless connection (a wireless scanner/copier/printer that’s supports WiFi encryption can be had for <$100). Otherwise, you will need to ‘share’ the printer from the PC it is connected to (or go to the trouble & expense of a network print server; often >$100). To share your printer from your PC, go to the printer ‘Properties’ (see Printers, in the Control Panel) by right-clicking the printer. Under the ‘Sharing’ tab in the printer properties, you can enable sharing. Of course you also have to add the printer to each of your other PCs.

I personally prefer wired network connections to wireless. They are faster and more reliable. Typically, your Cable/DSL modem would connect to a ‘N’ type wireless router, which connects to your PCs and other devices. If you can afford it, consider a Gigabit Router that is 802.11n/a/g compatible (such as a Linksys WRT610N).

By using a router that can operate on the 802.11a band (presuming your laptop can use 802.11a also), you can avoid all the congestion and interference on the 802.11g band, including Bluetooth. I have been to a site where 9 wireless systems were in range, and 6 of them were on the same channel! You can be sure that wireless performance in that neighborhood was marginal at best. That is why I recommend you use wireless connectivity only in circumstances where hardwired connections are impractical, and then use wireless 'N'.

You mentioned that you want to connect your satellite receiver to your network too. I am guessing you may be a DirecTV customer who wishes to use their ‘On Demand’ feature to download movies, and/or use their ‘DirecTV2PC’ feature to watch HD content on your PC/laptop. This is a situation where it definitely would be best to have the DirecTV HR22 DVR hardwired to your router. Presuming you have 15mbps cable Internet download speeds, with this setup it is possible to ‘schedule’ a full length movie from your PC, and then immediately begin watching it in full HD quality on your PC (presuming you have a HD capable monitor). With Windows 7, you can also play movies from your PC on your TV. Or view a slideshow on your TV created from pictures on your PC. It’s all feasible with a good secure network.

 

A: Good question; it depends on the price and your situation. If the subscription is not transferable, your "lifetime" update may not get used much if your GPS happens to get stolen, quit, or you decide you want a new one with updated features. However, having said that, I bought lifetime map updates for my Garmin because we drive a lot and I expect to keep my GPS for quite awhile (I have connected a backup camera to it, and newer models generally do not have external video inputs). Presuming you got up-to-date maps with your new unit (often free during the first 30 days), then a cheaper single map update at some point down the road may be your best option.

 

A: Sound reinforcement in a large room is not a DIY project! The speakers must take into account the room dimensions and accoustics, This means speaker selection and setup must be customized for the specific environment. You need to hire a contractor that can measure the frequency response of the room in the time domain, and then model various implementations (including accoustic treatments) using a PC to analyze the result. If your contractor cannot demonstrate a computer model of how his system solution will work, including the impact of near and far reflections on intelligibility, then you will almost certainly be disappointed with your purchase. This is not a matter of chosing 'good' speakers; it is a matter of which speakers are most appropriate, taking into account how they can be configured and what accoustical treatment may realistically be employed to augment their performance.

 

A: Since you are asking about vidoe projection, I am assuming you have a room that's too large for a large screen TV/monitor (where LCD works better to minimize reflections and plasma works better for wide viewing angles). Personally, I prefer DLP projectors over LCD because they have higher contrast ratios. Where high ambient light levels exist, I prefer rear projection for the same reason. I assure you that using front projection with an LCD projector in a well lit room will result in an image that appears very washed out compared to one using rear projection with a DLP projector. And it goes without saying that for a large screen you need several thousand lumens of light output.